First problem:
Black Krims are an heirloom. Heirloom tomatoes, while often lovely, are VERY prone to disease of many types, are specific to a certain weather/soil condition (on top of "tomatoes generally need x, y, z"). Krims, specifically come from the Ukraine, which are "steppes"... very, very dry plains prone to drought and heat and downpour -actually, that's any tomato's favorite way to grow... they won't grow well unless they dry out *completely*, and then are absolutely soaked... as well the steppes have very COLD temps. Super long growing cycle, and then *bam*, reeeally dry cold winter. I can't speak as to the soil comp of the Ukrainian region that grows sun loving veggies (melons, tomatoes, etc.), although I'd suspect that they're higher in calcium (more bone meal to add) than most places, and ash (the steppe fires are legendary, and have been happening for millennia). Commercially, heirloom tomatoes are nearly all grown indoors in sterilized soil to prevent the hoards of insects, fungus, and weather related problems (it's really easy to "force" plants indoors, but near impossible outside).
2nd Problem
No idea... it could be one of many many different things from lack of bees (I always use a paintbrush to make sure of pollination), to temp is too high, light/dark cycles not "right" to trigger fruiting, soil is too toxic (needing to be leeched... see below), too wet, too dry, spidermites... the list goes on.
In General:
Container tomatoes in general are a pain in the tucus, but very easy at the same time. You water them until the water comes out the side. This first time... wait for 10 minutes (dry soil will not absorb water very well, so you douse them, and come back later. Always, always always water tomatoes twice... but when figuring out:). Then you water them AGAIN, and then AGAIN, and then AGAIN, to make sure it is well and truly soaked. Each time, Pick it up and feel how heavy it is. When it is officially not getting any heavier, you've just figured out how much your pots weigh when saturated (usually 10-20x as much as when dry). Over the next few hours/days (depending on how hot and dry they are), pick up the pots again. You want them completely dry -but not for long, just a LITTLE limpness in your plants- before soaking them again. Dry, soak, dry, soak, dry, soak. If the tips of your leaves are turning brown "burning", there's too much water and you're not letting them dry out enough. If they're less than vibrant green and don't "spring back" from slightly limp an hour after watering... they're not getting water often enough.
Save your urine for a day or two (or if you're lucky enough to have boys... just tell them to go pee on the plants), and add pee to them at their rootbase at least once a week. ((Human pee is the best, it contains the perfect amount of nitrogen that is easily absorbable, the right acidity/pH, and what little isn't used by the plants, breaks down in the soil very quickly. You can use chemical nitrogen, but it burns plants very easily and "addicts" them to it (hard to explain in less than 20 minutes, but that's the best way I can, otw) so they don't grow or fruit as well. Avoid miracle gro like the plague. Ugh. Awful stuff.
Once a month, bring them inside and "leech" them in the bathtub... or just let a hose run and run and run (bathtub saves water). You want the water running out of the pots to run clear. You'll be *amazed* and the thick golden brown oily ooze that comes out prior. It's not dirt, and you can tell, because in an hour or 3, the water will run clear. Tomatoes release a lot of wastes into the soil, which inhibits their growth and fruiting. Leeching the toxins from the soil will make for MUCH healthier and more robust fruiting plants. (For very strong stalks, btw, when they're seedlings/sprouts... aim a fan at them. Hard enough to blow them over, but not uproot them. Turn them every few hours. Whereas before you'd have stalks the size of your pinkie, turning a fan on them will get stalks the size of a man's big toe. From a centimeter or less in diameter to 1-2.5 inches. The larger stalks not only support heavy fruit better, but they allow for a MUCH greater absorption of water and nutrients during both the vegetative cycle and the fruiting cycle. Don't be gentle with seedlings. Blow them around. Knock them about (stronger roots). Let them wilt (triggers water hoarding), overwater. Treat them BADLY when they're young, and you'll have "Whoa." plants by fruiting time.
To know (and I haven't looked up krims to check recently), MOST "purple" tomatoes are late fruiting. The purple color comes from their reaction to the sudden drop in temperature that happens in our area around halloween. Typically a 40 degree temperature change in the space of a week. The temp shifts, the nights get *cold*, and the plants turn purple. Commercial growers just turn on the refrigerator units for a few days.
My mix (not the be all, end all, but a good general 'base':
Black Gold potting soil
Bone Meal
Blood Meal
Worm Castings (liquid form, given periodically)
Pee (yes, you read that correctly)
Pearlite (for drainage)
Vermiculite (for drainage)
((tomatoes need VERY good drainage, and a lot of water. Which is an annoying combo. Even soaking them a lot as babies, to weed out the most succeptable and to strengthen the remainders, they still are pretty prone to root rot.))
Handy:
- Insecticidal soap (for spidermites, aphids, etc.)