Oh Boy!!! A chance to make a giant list :)
For a great map, check out www.lakere.com. >> property search >> North King. They're not great realtors, but they have the BEST interactive map, with all of the neighborhoods clearly laid out.
I have to say at the outset, that while my Mom's native to Seattle (and I spent every summer here growing up), and I've got family all over this city...I didn't move here until I was an adult. My dad was in the Navy, so we were all over the place. I've lived here for about 15 years though, not including the summers from my childhood, so this is something of an outside-inside perspective.
Basic Seattle geography: The city is split six ways from Sunday by water and hills. You've got the Puget Sound / Union Bay, Lake Washington, & the Montlake Cut (which connects the Puget Sound to Lake Washington)as the big dividers. Theres also possibly not one actual acre of flat space. BIG HILLS. Big hills everywhere. What this all equates to...bridges, and big sections of the city in each of these areas.
Here are the big ones:
- Anything waterfront, or with a great view of H20
- Seattle ... Downtown & Capitol & First & Queen Anne Hill
- The "Eastside" ... separated by Lake Washington
- West Seattle ... separated by Union Bay & Industrial Area
- North of the Montlake Cut ... separated by the Montlake Cut
- North Seattle ... (my definition - see below)
- South Seattle & Renton ...seperated by the Industrial Area
- Ballard ... an entity into itself
- Magnolia ... an entity into itself
- Edmonds (downtown) ... an entity into itself
- The "yuck" streets and places to avoid
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Waterfront & View are posh to upper middle income very nice. Doesn't matter where you are in the city or surrounding areas.
Downtown Seattle & First Hill are urban. Capitol Hill is half SanFransico "FABULOUS, girlfriend!!" and then a solid mix of middle income and very posh. Queen Anne Hill is mostly old money and very posh crowded by many many apts along the edges. Madison Valley/the Arboretum border Capitol Hill and stretch along the Mountlake Cut to Lake Washington, very nice to very posh. 0-10 minutes to downtown.
The Eastside is REGARDED as posh (they have white concrete sidewalks and planned neighborhoods), but its more by layout then by price. Bellevue, Kirkland, & Redmond have their own thriving downtowns. Bellevue and Redmond are our Tech. centers. Think Microsoft. It's connected to the Seattle side of the lake by 2 bridges; 520 connecting Kirkland to the U-district(stay off, it only moves faster then a crawl in the middle of the night) & I-90. I-90 zooms, and connects Bellevue/Factoria (aka the actual city names, but its all one big urban sprawl) and Mercer Island direct to downtown. Good Traffic downtown on I-90 = 10 min or less, bad = 20. Good Traffic to downtown on 520 + I-5 = 15min, Bad Traffic = 1-2hours.
West Seattle is typical Seattle dichotomy...terribly crime ridden and drug infested near the factories and the side of the hill that faces them, gorgeous and very posh on the side of the hill that faces the Puget Sound. The West Seattle Bridge & Hwy 99 connect to downtown. Good traffic = 20 min, Bad traffic = about an hour.
North of the Mountlake Cut is the University of Washington. The neighborhoods surrounding it are typical College Town, funky, artsy, intellectual (ahh...once you get past frat row that is ;) The neighborhoods are the U-district, Ravenna, Bryant, Wedgewood, Freemont, & Greenlake. (I added these to help w/ my definition of North Seattle...there is no real geographic boundary, but a strong cultural one.) Using my definition we're talking from 50th St. NE to about 85th St. NE Good Traffic to Downtown = 10 minutes, Bad Traffic = 20
North Seattle, in my book, starts right around 85th and continues past the actual city limit (about 140th) all the way up the lake until you hit Bothell. In most people's books 140th marks where the "cities" of Shoreline, Richmond Beach, Lake Forest Park, Kenmore begin or exist. They incorporated to avoid Seattle politics, but there's really no difference. It's all sub-urban, and none of the neighborhoods are planned, but fairly nice. LOTS of nice middle income family housing, but also a lot on busy streets. Nearly no sidewalks. Seriously. The sidewalks in Seattle are in terrible repair, but North Seattle was built during a gas guzzling age. A great area though. Good Traffic to Downtown = 20 minutes, Bad Traffic = 40+
South Seattle and Renton have some wonderful pockets, but you have to know where to find them. The Seward Park area or Mt. Baker neighborhoods, for example are WONDERFUL, but 5 blocks in either direction is bad. Cleaned up a great deal over the past 10 years, but still a LOT of half-way houses, etc. Fortunately nowhere near as many needles and crackpipes...my cousins grew up there, so I can attest that it IS getting A LOT better...but South Seattle still has that flavor. The construction of the Lightrail is also helping a LOT. In general the schools are worse & income's low. Same in Renton, without as much drug/crime history. Renton has a reputation for a hardworking, blue collar population, but that population is gradually dying off (of old age) and being replaced by the younger set, also without much $. (Please remember I'm talking in generalities...wheeee my in-laws live in Renton, and would skin me otherwise.) I mention Renton even though its not technically Seattle, because it blurs with South Seattle AND that is where you find Boeing. There's also the dreaded "Renton S-Curves" on I-5, where traffic SPEEDS along at a WHOPPING 5mph. However, South Seattle has the highest Asian & Ethiopian density, and is probably the most diverse semi-urban/sub-urban area in the city. Good Traffic to Downtown = 10-20 minutes, Bad Traffic = 30-40
The Entities into Themselves
Ballard. You'll have to experience Ballard yourself. It's...well...Ballard. There's probably several webpages devoted to Ballard. You will see bumperstickers all over the city with "FREE BALLARD" written on them. There's also "Ballard Day" where everyone is supposed to drive all day with their lefthand turn signal on continuously and a seatbelt dangling out one of the doors making sparks on the asphalt. Seattle loves Ballard...but no one's really sure what to think about it. Commute's hard though, even though it's close. Only 2 real streets that go in and out. Good Traffic to Downtown = ? minutes, Bad Traffic = ?? (If someone knows, message me & I'll update it. I always get lost.)
Magnolia is an old money island (not really, really its W. Seattle-ish) of loveliness with a really friendly population. Like Ballard it's hard to get in and out of (and I'm afraid I don't know the commute time again), but it's hard not to want to stay in Magnolia driving around looking at all the beautiful old houses and mature gardens. I'll probably never live there, but it's a wonderful place to visit. Very Posh.
Edmonds is North and West along the Puget Sound, and I'm not exactly sure about the county line. They're a coastal-type artsy walkable downtown with a ton of condos surrounded by nice suburbs and many gated communities. Like Ballard and Magnolia, its also a destination neighborhood that can be a pain to get in/out of, but worth it to go. Edmonds is in the Northshore School District (see below). The Edmonds Ferry docks here, too. Good Traffic to Downtown = 30 minutes, Bad Traffic = 40-60
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Of the above areas/neighborhoods it's mostly about picking the flavor you like the best. I would be remiss though if I left out the following. Seattle's VERY low crime big-city speaking, most of the addicts keep it indoors, and the gangs are all wannabe's and practically non-existent...so even though these are on my "yuck" list, we're not talking East LA either.
TO AVOID
Streets : Hwy99 in the North, MLK (Martin Luther King)& Ranier Ave in the South. They're all safe while driving, but you don't want to live too near them. Really don't want to.
White Center - Where the news reports the most shootings.
Central District (aka "the CD") - It's slowly turning around...people marketing a 'turned area' tend to say Capitol Hill instead. It borders Capitol Hill to the South. Still a LOT of drugs in this area.
George Town - "It's not just for prostitutes anymore!" is the marketing campaign. I actually have several close school friends (from college) in this neighborhood, but even though it's "hot" right now, I wouldn't recommend it.
* * * LASTLY, A WORD OR 12 ABOUT SCHOOLS :) * * *
Seattle School District has a bad reputation (educationally speaking, not safety-wise) that is well deserved. There are gems of schools and teachers but stick with private schools or co-ops by and large. Same with the Shoreline School District, except possibly worse as far as education goes, but better as far as appearances. The schools on the Eastside are MUCH better, and the Northshore school district (Bothel, Woodinville, Edmonds, etc.) is the best in the area. That said...Washington State has SUPER LOW expectations for their students in general. If you can afford it, definitely look into private schools, if not...be as active in your children's education as you can be.
Whew. We all knew I tend to talk...I think this one may have gotten away from me.
:) Welcome to Seattle,
Z.